Material Monday Industry Special: Tactility Speaks at London Fashion Week AW 2018

Material Monday Industry Special: Tactility Speaks at London Fashion Week AW 2018

Posted 26 February 2018 by Katie Kubrak

Last week in London we were witnesses to a fashion take over of the city. Numerous journalists, photographers, bloggers and creatives flooded the streets seeking all the wonders London Fashion Week had to offer. And the schedule was packed (!) with industry defining shows as Christopher Bailey’s last Burberry showcase, insightful talks, The Sustainable Angle space as well as it was accompanied by the most unexpected appearance of Her Majesty the Queen to the Richard Quinn’s show.

Furthermore, LFW, alongside NYFW, saw an outburst of youthful talent aiming to redefine and push the traditional look and feel of catwalk show. Immersing ourselves in the featured events, we also observed designers becoming ever more playful with autumn and winter tactilities of fabrics and finishes. As Anna Wintour concludes “(…) lack of exploration may result in the perception of repetitiveness, which neither of the young designers wishes to do.” This exciting creative attitude painted remarkable material trends for the AW18′ season ahead.

Below, we identify five CMF tactilities that will mark their presence in the AW18’ season:

CMF Trend #1 – Lace

Being perceived as surface of prestige, heritage and glamour, lace gracefully dominated AW18′ catwalks. We spotted a range of different threads being used that included natural (e.g. cotton) and synthetic fibers (e.g. nylon, polyester). Their open and weblike patterns, in which the texture of the skin intertwines with graphical motif of the fabric, evoked emotions of intimacy, discretion, trust and sensuality of human body. Popularisation of this highly valued material, illustrates the general need for human affection and tenderness in the chaos of socio-political scene.

CMF Trend #2 – Fur, Feathers & Leathers

Whether using real or faux furs, feathers and leathers, designers mindfully apply these surfaces to equip clothing with honest haptic experiences. Faux fur shapes jackets and coats to offer a sense of cocooning and, in some instances, also replaces lining to create a cushioning effect. Feathers act as a defining detail and an outline of the form that adorns the garments with the sense of movement. This all, is further amplified by a choice of semi-aniline leather finishes that capture tactile qualities of leather’s natural coarseness. Its characteristic smooth texture accompanied by spontaneous patterns showcases the markets need for authentic-feel surfaces.

CMF Trend #3 – Embellishments & Metallics

Embellishments & Metallics prove that a little sparkle never hurt anybody. This trend portrays a visionary moment of glitzy escapism that aims to lift up the spirit and raise confidence in the uncertain and ever more divided socio-political scene. This trend was evident in tactile surfaces that included Michael Halpern’s unashamed sequin glamour, David Koma’s fringe details, Mary Katrantzou’s boho style ornamentations or Erdem’s flocked embellishments on lace.

CMF Trend #4 – Frills, flounce, ruffle, furbelow

Experimentation with frills, flounces, ruffles and furbelows alongside sleeves, skirts and entire dresses was spotted in numerous collections that included Marques Almeida, Christopher Kane and Roksanda. Even though designers made a different choice of fabric, we witnessed their garments peacefully gliding on air, which defined memorable impression of suspended yet really dynamic material moments. Furthermore, these fluid and wave-like shapes added additional dimension to the surface tactility of presented garments.

CMF Trend #5 – Colours

Colours for the AW18′ season will embrace individuality, spark fantasy and annotate sensual and natural heritage. We will see an outburst of playfully rebellious colours, graphics and patterns. Clashes and skilful layering will define compilations of these. Some of the most notable shades included: purple, beige, black, deep reds, maroon, baby blue complemented with hues of turquoise, mocha and mellow yellow.

If you are interested to find out more about some of the other CMF trends we are closely monitoring for 2018, please feel free to get in touch and explore our material library for seasonal/project inspiration!